And major tasting pleasure. Let’s cut to the share. The pumpkin and walnut croquettes come as three crusted pillows under a flurry of microherbs, orange and green on a black slate. With a texture not unlike a savoury Ferrero Rocher, the toasty crumble of breadcrumb and nut gives way to a buttery pumpkin puree and a welcome gush of spice with such indulgence, sharing seems almost criminal. Just kidding. The next plate arrives with ribbons of rare beef strips and a roll of doughy cornbread with whipped horseradish butter. I’m not one for spotlighting condiments. We eat sushi for sushi, toast for toast and the like. But this whipped, ethereal cloud of tangy butter proves not all condiments are made equal. While the beef is fresh and balanced, the cornbread bouncing in floury warmth, the two slapped with a little butter is unrivalled simplicity. Beef, bread and butter. Beautiful. The tempura zucchini flowers stuffed with crab, chilli and ricotta speak for themselves. Again, bear in mind this is share plate dining, so don’t expect a whole crab or garden patch of food. Instead, savour the crisp tempura crunch wrapped around the stem to the bud, rendering this vessel so delicate it simply must be eaten in three bites. A salty, fleshy crab flavour ensues with velvet ricotta and subsides with a vegetal bite. Team this with the beetroot salad three ways with goat’s cheese and just savour that creamy, small plate comfort. Locals of my acquaintance hold discernment for their fish. Locally sourced is up there, while everyone still loves the best-quality interstate stuff too. Batter is on the out in these glutenfree times, while two or three ingredients are considered sufficient to create seafood greatness. And no predictability, please. Thus far, the trout and barramundi are statements of discernment. On the menu, the tetsuya-smoked trout with pickled vegetables doesn’t sound like much. But here it is, a slender, canoe-shaped trout fillet flashing in a balayage of scales, balanced on a string of pickled cauliflower and capsicum pearls. Balance prevails in flavour with the oily, smoky fish spiked with the piquant, not-too-vinegary vegetables. Sweet and sour fish, if you will. The barramundi with lemon chervil pearl barley is the lusher, juicier fish dish. Its crispyskinned, flaky white fillet absorbs a pool of lemony stock and grains, which with a squirt of lime and a few sprigs of watercress is pleasantly filling, wholesome and speaks warm autumn DINING 108 Pindara Magazine Autumn 2015
Pindara Private Hospital Magazine - Issue Four
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