DINING It’s dark in here, but by design. The openspaced, 100-seat dining space endeavours to entice. From the handmade blackbutt wood tables, to the exposed dark brick walls running the grey tiled flooring, to the robust pillars of onyx-black tiles shimmering like fish scales. Black is the new black, bar the explosions of colour from the three paintings of Venetian buildings mounted sporadically. Even the cutlery is a little provocative, curving into the grip like the seamless manoeuvre of a cheeky Italian dance partner. Like many of the ingredients, the staff too exemplifies the Italian-accented philosophy of Cicchetti; they are all from Italy, a fact worn by the boys with as much gusto as their uniform. “I am Italian, and of course our chefs are too,” Luca gestures expressively to the kitchen. Our looks are met with a firm nod from head chef Enrico Semenzato from Venice, barely glancing up as he dices vegetables at a terrifying speed. On pouring the first bottle of frosted San Pellegrino, the young waiter says with a smirk to break hearts, “I am Italian too”. Hey, less flirt and more focus when the hour of lunch is upon us. Cicchetti confronts the Italian stereotype of bravo with the Baccalá Mantecato’s delicacy of flavour. For the first appetizer, mini chervil herb adorns a shell of salted cod puree on a grilled polenta square that mimics the texture and pleasure of a beach bonfire-toasted marshmallow, a clever collision of salty and sweet. For those who don’t know, any dish that arrives with a perfume bottle of brandy is set to impress. The Capesante Gratinate (scallop gratin) encrusted in brittle breadcrumbs tainted green and gold from basil butter is silky and firm, yielding a smoky flavour enlivened with fresh dill. Sprayed with brandy for extra bite, it is washed down with a fruity glass of Borgo Alle Vigne Pinot Grigio. The Gnocchi E Calamari is a platonic meeting of land and sea with sweet corn puree that reaches flavour depths of buttermilk or burnt caramel, pulled suddenly to the surface with the saltiness of squid ink, smudged across the plate like petroleum on snow. With the two pieces of pan-fried gnocchi and thick, al dente calamari to soak up the goodness with a nip of chive, it’s finger licking good. Would Nonna mind? A glass of matched woody The Lane Vineyard ‘Beginning’ Chardonnay from Adelaide Hills does well to keep hands off the plate. Of the Filetto di Pesce al Cartoccio (steamed fish with autumn vegetables), it could be said that although the fish lacks melt-in-mouth-ability, and John Dory doesn’t exactly incite confidence in Italian authenticity, the dish’s lemon-and-butter simplicity is welcome. Head chef Enrico, whose experience extends from Italy’s Michelin-star Oderzo restaurant to a period in Spain and eight years in Australia, created the menu with his Mamma and Nonna in mind, digging back to his childhood basics whilst incorporating local produce. “The style is meant to be for sharing, and we tried to keep the food real, let’s say. Real Italian that uses what we can find in the area,” he gestures to the menu. Working with the all-Italian chefs inspired the traditional flare of every dish, each with a little amore. “Everything on the plate is my childhood.” Pindara Magazine 104 Autumn - Winter | 2014
Pindara Private Hospital Magazine - Issue Two
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