DINING A small galaxy of Edison bulbs throws light onto the fine wine glasses and studded glass candleholders. On the left, a splendid timber bar backed by gently lit shelving offers a selection of mysterious craft beers on tap, forging a magnetic force between you and the stool. Don’t fight it. Tossing back a frosted glass of, say, Brookvale Union Ginger Beer or the locally made Black Hops Pale Ale, you might notice the few awkward moments in the décor. The money put towards napkin embroidery might have been better spent on actually filling the shelf space with bottles, or more plastic chops. Behind the vintage lounges, too, the brick wall takes bareness to another level. Where’s the painting, the street art? But despite this, the rest of the restaurant is hushed and sophisticated. We might even consider the blank space as room to get creative in the coming months. On first glance – and second and third – the menu comes across monomaniacal. It centres heavily on meat. If the sizzle-smoke curling over the pass wasn’t enough of a clue, perhaps the unambiguous ‘Steak’ and ‘Not Steak’ main menu will be. Repeat, steak house. The Glenelg Public House feels somewhere between a big risk and a real what-the-hell moment. In the epicentre of Lorna Jane territory, where nearby cafés are serving organic, hyperwholesome smoothie bowls and coco-whips, it’s chancy to focus on wagyu, beef and breast. But the impression rests heavily on the quality of the food and the comfort of the setting. Whether you don a white shirt and jeans, or a cocktail dress and heels, the Glenelg Public House is a polestar of the Gold Coast’s smart casual style. The starter menu explores land and sea with a subtle lean to Europe. The cured ocean trout – the freshest entrée – arrives as four steaks of lightly marbled trout, scattered with dill, lemon, juniper and gin. The beetroot and horseradish cream on top mix the fish’s oily flavour with crunch to cream in each mouthful. Things head south to France with the rabbit terrine, a neat patchwork of chunky game and pickled chilli, onion and gherkin, which also double on the plate as garnish. Served with two slices of toast, it’s a punchy yet approachable dish. What’s a steak house without the undeniable pleasure of ten-at-a-time French fries? Or 108 Pindara Magazine 2015\2016
Pindara Private Hospital Magazine - Issue Six
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