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Pindara Private Hospital Magazine - Issue Six

Note that, besides its appearance on many local food blogs under ‘Brisbane’s Best Mexican’ and ‘Best Margaritas’, Los Villanos is known as the city’s number one date spot, according to The Urban List. Apparently, their Tinder Tuesdays go off. It’s not hard to see why. At all hours, the lighting is delicious, thanks to either the outdoor fairy lights or the hushed tea candles winking along the back bar inside. Awkward dates can refer to the dancing skulls, sequined sombreros or the illuminated La Virgen Maria shrine on the mirrored wall for subject matter. Eclectic charm exists in every inch of vintage wrestling poster, polished timber and sultry lamplight. It’s schmoozy, smouldering. All we need to perfect the occasion is the velvety vocals of Chavela Vargas or a space for some salsa steps. But this is Brisbane, so we turn to corn chips. And so arrives a rippled ceramic bowl-full of salted tortilla (pronounced tor-ti-ya, actually) chips served with an utterly fresh, lime-kissed guacamole and tangy tomato salsa. The chips are toasted, brittle, savoury; nothing like the packaged kind. With the creamy avocado we enter beer food heaven. Speaking of which, choice abounds in the bar menu. There are, unsurprisingly, 36 kinds of international tequilas, from the premium Gran Corralejo Añejo, made by the 260-year old artisan distillery Tequila Corralejo, to the sweeter, spicier Kah Skull Blanco. If you haven’t tried mezcal, consider yourself somewhat lucky. Though imbedded in the culture of southwest Mexico, especially Oaxaca, this plant-based spirit might come across abrasive and almost ‘dirty’ tasting if you’re a card-carrying craft beer or wine drinker. But served at room temperature, in an open glass to release the smoky layers of cinnamon and marzipan, it’s an exciting, chair-gripping spirit, and certainly capable of turning the heat up for your evening. Los Villanos has 11 types for your induction. Does Charlie, approaching now with a plate of elote, know of an equally racy drink? “Well, my friend combines a shot of tequila with a shot of Yucateco (hot sauce) and calls it breakfast,” he says before departing. The elote, four half-cobs of ‘street’ corn snuggled under a shaving of manchego, leave McCain’s in the dust. Each silky kernel explodes with juice, sweetened more by the gush of warm chipotle mayo, spliced with fresh coriander. They taste of Mexican summer, from where you’d rather be. At the same time arrives a duo of tacos, or tacquitos; palm-sized soft maize tortillas topped with a tumble of crushed avocado, pico de gallo (fresh tomato and lime salsa), corn kernels, shaved queso fresco and plump black beans, which gleam like river stones. Fresh, moreish, textured and filling, they make for a brilliant light lunch or fuel for a night out. The tortillas, sourced from a local boutique supplier (who they won’t name), have that mouthfilling maizey-ness I haven’t had since stepping off the streets of Mexico D.F. The chef Karl, who works between Los Villanos and Peasant, explains that the team had recently cut down the menu options to hone in on the favourites and further spotlight the freshness of local ingredients. The starters are proof. By 2.50pm, it’s so far so bueno. The drinks are cold, the music is loud and diners are coming and going, lending the place a transient, relaxed energy. But although it’s a hotspot for quick bites, there is ample opportunity to extend your stay. Especially if ordering Pedro’s Grandmother’s slow-cooked pork ribs, a sizeable structure of meat laid on a wooden board with vivid green jalapeño sauce, pickled chilli and coriander. The hours have done their job, softening the meat into buttery segments, steeped in smoky nuances. Los Villanos welcome vegetarians, offering multiple meat-free options throughout the snacks, mains and sides. Mushrooms are the heroes here, and hold enough robust flavour and hearty texture to tempt carnivores to the dark side. The quesadilla de hongos (mushrooms) with jalapeño crema and guacamole will practically turn them for life, I kid not. Presented flat, toasted and cut into thirds, it’s made for sharing, and for totally classy ambidextrous dining: right hand quesadilla, left hand Corona. The mushroom packs punches of umami, and is succulent with oil and salt. Each mouthful moves through crunch, sauce and spice with the welcome cool respite of coriander and tomato, bringing body slams of flavour when dipped in the side of guacamole. If you can resist scoffing the lot yourself, share this generous plate with amigos. Such is the vibe at Los Villanos that you can’t help but wish the staff could sit down for a bite and a brew. Smiles out, drinks down, orders taken; the service is a sound medley of professionalism and matey-ness, and they don’t miss a beat among the commotion. And as for the experience, as well as being a solid date venue, it’s Mexican that nails authenticity without trying too hard, and that still throws a shade of Brisbane into the proceedings. Viva la local touches. Atmosphere, tequila and enough Hispanic flavour to bring a wrestler to his knees, everything at Los Villanos suggests we should keep our friends close, and our villains closer. DINING 104 Pindara Magazine 2015\2016


Pindara Private Hospital Magazine - Issue Six
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