DINING While many of the city’s establishments boast river views, Stokehouse Q is the only one literally perched on the river, the design of which takes great advantage of the unique locale and unimpeded vista. Since opening their doors to Brisbane in November 2012, Stokehouse Q has fast become a favourite of the river city. The sequel to Melbourne’s famed St Kilda original, it has firmly cemented its place as a ‘go to’ for residents entertaining visitors or seeking to celebrate a special occasion. Alternatively, it’s a welcome excuse for dining out when without occasion, but are hankering for an elegant experience, both in the restaurant and on the plate. While many of the city’s establishments boast river views, Stokehouse Q is the only one literally perched on the river, the design of which takes great advantage of the unique locale and unimpeded vista. Designed by award-wining architecture and interior design firm Arkhefield, it’s a bold, yet elegant sculptural building, and one that’s amassed a number of awards. It took home Inside Magazine’s 2012 Interior Design Excellence Award and was named in the global top five of Wallpaper* magazine’s 2013 Design Awards – the only Australian restaurant to feature, placing both the country and Brisbane alongside some of the world’s most renowned dining destinations. The high cantilevered roofs and floor-to-ceiling bi-fold doors, combine to create a space that’s flooded with natural light and provides expansive views up two reaches of the river and across to the CBD. The timber slating that features both on the walls, and ceiling, only plays to emphasise the characteristically Queensland feel. The experience is much like its building and surrounds – sleek, natural and warm. A visit should begin with an aperitif in the Stoke Bar. Occupying the far end of the development, it’s an engaging and buzzing locale both for a quick drink (and perhaps a graze of the superb tasting plates) and a precursor to the dining experience. The cocktails, be they an old classic or contemporary mix, rival those of Brisbane’s celebrated Fortitude Valley cocktail bars and the wine list takes strength from the restaurant’s alignment. A large selection of domestic and international beers both on tap, and by the bottle, is on offer. In the dining room, there’s no label as a ‘bad table’ with all boasting impressive views, and capturing the river’s breeze. When seated and at the table, the waiters are attentive and seamless. They’re refined, yet familiar and take pride in explaining both the specials for that service and personal preferences of the seasonal modern Australian menu - it’s one that places great emphasis on seasonal and local produce. On a recent visit, the specials were just that – special – and made the decision for entrée and main course even more difficult, considering the already alluring menu entries. Lamb shoulder ($26) seasoned with native saltbush was pulled and passed through gnocchi with peas and green almonds. It proved popular as a first course and did not disappoint, with the tender, rich meat offset by the cleaner, green flavours. The gnocchi was delicate and light. From the current menu, the Queensland spanner crab ($26), served with green gazpacho and a tart verjuice jelly, was received with silence, accentuated by nods of approval. It made for a cooling dish, while a pile of shaved green asparagus, topped with creamy goats curd and the crunch of buckwheat ($22), came across as a celebration of the beauty to be found in simple, clean ingredients. Of the main courses, all were met with acclaim. The Coral Coast barramundi ($38) was pan seared and the skin, crisp. The well-sized fillet plated atop a deconstructed nicoise style salad, served as a perfect summer meal, particularly when dining in the heat. The roasted Riverina lamb, came two ways, both on the rack and the loin. It was plated with crisp, golden parsnips, sautéed kale and garlic ($41), making for a refined take on the lamb roast. The rack was cooked to the requested medium rare. Pork belly ($41) exists on most menus as the indulgent choice, but the beauty of Stokehouse Q’s version is the soft and buttery meat that sits under the salty skin is offset by the welcome addition of radicchio and its bitter, caramelised elements. Post mains, time was taken to linger and finish the excellent bottle of the 2010 Amisfield Pinot Noir ($100). Hailing from Central Otago, it was a difficult selection given the weight of the wine list, which at 22 pages, presents both the best of the domestic and international offerings across all types and varietals. Those that had the room for dessert took to Stokehouse’s signature sweet staple, the impressive ‘Bombe’ ($20) – the combination of strawberry sorbet and white chocolate parfait encased in a creamy Italian meringue and lightly toasted before serving. Those looking to satisfy their requirements for both coffee and sugar enjoyed affogatos ($16). Made on amaretto, the nutty notes worked back with the accompanying biscotti. All the elements of Stokehouse Q combine to ensure the experience meets and then exceeds expectations. From the setting, to what’s served, it’s an instant and lasting impression for all who visit, and a testament both to its surroundings and superb produce. pm Stokehouse Q. Sidon Street, South Bank, Brisbane. pindaramagazine.com.au Pindara Magazine 107
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