DINING As the empty shell reclines on a bed of ice beside the glistening, floral scampi flesh, it’s a real do-Ieat it-do-I-Gram-it scenario. But hold the phone. That feeling that soft New Zealand scampi meat, layered in miso and white soy, is a sublime mouth-feel of salt and charred sweetness that no smartphone lens could capture. For lesser recommendation perhaps is the crispy rice and spiced tuna from the izakaya (small plate) menu. Filed out in the dark ceramic are four sushi-like pieces of deep-fried rice dressed with fresh tuna, a teardrop of spicy mayo and micro-herbs. Moreish? Sweet? Sure, but the chewiness of the rice is just a few cards short of a deep-fried LCM bar that abates the tuna’s sparkle. All still very fun though. While the gist of Kijoma’s narrative so far is amusing and artistic, the next chapter is the most playful. The Hiramasa Kingfish sashimi seeks to represent a Japanese take on fish and chips, with miso ceviche and crispy potato, the latter very finely shredded like crispy Asian noodles. The kingfish quite literally melts in mouth, its silky segments of raw flesh slip cool on the lips whilst that indulgent ‘chippy’ flavour is lent from the heavily fried potato strands. The textural intrigue of silk-then-crunch is a little lost though when the fish’s oiliness overpowers, but the dish certainly stands as an Australian icon with a Japanese flag. Experiencing Kijoma’s 800-degree binchotan grill is one of those rare moments in life that we can praise the use of coal. The fat caught in the collar of this superior grill drops instantly into the charcoal, which creates a more gentle burn. This then smokes the food through, rendering a more delicate smoky touch than its regular counterparts. The Dengakuman Toothfish is first to hit the big smoke and arrives in a trio of palm-sized fillets glistening in toast-and-honey coloured dengakuman sauce, flanked by a tumble of Chilean cucumber salad with ginger and lime. Another chapter of Kijoma’s inspiration; this caramelised sauce (miso, sugar, sake and mirin reduced) is a common secret weapon for Japanese parents persuading their kids to eat greens. This is no mere parent-trap: biting into the soft, delicately smoked fish, with its curling treacle edges and whisper of sea salt, it all makes sense. The combination of sweet cucumber, white fish and miso is delectable enough to push it into dessert territory. As such, we do thank that this saccharine sensation stops at three fillets. Phew, pass the soy. Now is probably the time that you’re twisting your life jacket and wondering when we’re heading back to shore. Welcome then Kiyomi’s Signature Duck Breast; a sophisticated, crispy breast served simple and solo on a full-moon plate, splashed with beetroot puree and golden sansho powder. Its simple preparation embraces that rich, unmistaken ducky essence, enhanced by the binchotan. As they say, if it walks like a duck. When you pair the words ‘Japanese’ and ‘dessert’ and instinctively visualise those outlandish dessert pods found at Westernised sushi bars, please stop. Kiyomi concludes the evening with a small collection of intricate desserts that explore deep, earthy flavour territory to lighter springtime fruit compilations. The Apple Jack is a sharp and bubbly tumble of poached apple slices, spheres of Jack Daniel foam and honey ice cream split with textured shards of toffee and cubes of gingerbread. It’s sweet and comforting with a wink of liquor, as though Grandma has baked with a bottle in hand, reappropriating Jack into fairy tale flavour. Something certainly worth ordering, if not just to look at, is the Mango Special, with fresh Northern Territory mango, ovals of yoghurt cream, toasted milk powder, basil-mint meringues and mango sorbet strung across the plate like a deconstructed Weis bar. Similarly, the Goma Street (Goma in Japanese is ‘sesame’) of black sesame ice cream, white chocolate moose, black sugar crumble and black sesame paste is a stunner, although lacking the fresh vivacity of the fruit desserts. But hands together for a brilliant finale. Sadly, there are many contemporary rice-roll fans out there suffering from something I call The Sushi- Train Effect, whereby Kewpie Mayo abuse and stripped schnitzel are wrongly considered the apex of Japanese cuisine. Kijoma dispels this notion with his traditional treatments, authentic ingredients and mainly, he says, by keeping it simple. “I just focus on trying to keep it more fun and more tasty with simple traditional, but unique combinations,” Kijoma says. “The best food for me is simple food. The hardest is finalising, because there are so many options of what I can do but always fight to keep any of my creations simple.” According to Hoyle, it’s the smart simplicity of dishes that makes Japanese food so successful, not the overplay of rice, mayo and double dips in the deep-fry. Kiyomi is a fine dining experience complemented by personal service (a special nod to the exceptional waitress Reneé) and an electric cocktail bar. If you do plan to slip into a cosy barstool for the evening, you’ll be quickly acquainted with an extensive list of Japanese tap and bottle beers, sake, shochu cocktails and Japanese whiskies for the ideal you-win-some, you-booze-some evening in the coast’s high roller clubhouse. Remember Japanese for cheers, kanpai, which means, “dry the glass”. Easier said than…well, perhaps not in this case. Chase Kijomi’s serious business has lent the Gold Coast a new world of play. His menu celebrates refined Japanese dishes that are delivered with professionalism, a little storytelling, a great drink to knock back, and nary a mayo bottle in site. And mind the cliché, but if the Japanese proverb “Take a loss, make a gain” is anything to go by, make the loss on the game floor below. Kiyomi is only in for the win. pm Kiyomi Jupiters Casino, Broadbeach 1800 074 344 jupitersgoldcoast.com.au pindaramagazine.com.au Pindara Magazine 105
Pindara Private Hospital Magazine - Issue Four
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